Question for Cplus....

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By Exdukenut on Monday, November 18, 2002 - 09:11 pm:  View Exdukenut's Profile Search for other posts by Exdukenut Edit this post

Where is the write up for how you did your swingarm conversion?

What tools, what tricks etc are req'd? How'd you get the bush adjuster, adjusted correctly?

As you know I'm just about to do mine, and any tips greatly appreciated.

I've done numerous swingarm bushes on an old Ducati, with the brass bushes, but nothing as convoluted as the Falco/Mille swingarm, with all the new bearings etc. Although I'm taking the swingarm down to a dealer to get worked over with the new parts.



By Cplus on Tuesday, November 19, 2002 - 07:39 pm:  View Cplus's Profile Search for other posts by Cplus Edit this post

I, ah, well, ya' see... I haven't written it up yet. Sort of got sidetracked by things around the house the last couple of weeks (my kitchen ceiling just collapsed where, unknown to me, the bathroom had been leaking for a while ).

I do have all the pics, and remember -- vaguely -- what I did, so I'll start in on the write up this week. Probably.

I think it's probably very similar to doing the swingarm on the Ducs, so you shouldn't have any problem. The only special tools you'll need are the special Aprilia wrench to remove the 4-point castle nut on the pivot bolt (I borrowed one), a 14-mm allen wrench (not so easy to come by, it turns out) and a chain rivet tool. Otherwise, you can do the whole thing with a good set of metric wrenches and a torque wrench.

The only tricks to the whole thing that I remember off the top of my head was loosening the rear exhaust header (you need to remove the lower section, naturally, but loosening the rear gave some extra wiggle room) and the order in which you remove/replace the pivot and it's associated nuts. Just look at the whole assembly for a minute or two and it will make sense. There are some silly little things, like having to remove the battery so you can unbolt the stock mudflap, but these are pretty obvious once you get started.

The swingarm I installed only had about 1000 miles on it, and still had the stock bearings in place and in excellent condition, so I didn't worry about changing them. If your dealer is installing new bearing, you shouldn't have to worry about them either. Just make sure they're greased up and you're good to go.

The whole project took me about 8 hours. This included disassembly and reassembly with the new swingarm, front and rear sprockets, new chain and new shock. I'm sure most folks could do it quicker, but I really wanted to take my time and make sure everything went smoothly.

Sorry if this is a little vague. Just let me know if you have any specific questions and I'll try to help out as best I can. 

By Exdukenut on Sunday, November 24, 2002 - 02:47 pm:  View Exdukenut's Profile Search for other posts by Exdukenut Edit this post

Sorry, Cplus, I haven't been back to you re this, and thanks for the info. Makes a lot of sense, but one further question. I have a good selection of metric tools so that's not the problem.

Where did you borrow the castle nut tool from. An aprilia dealer/service centre, or just a general mechanic?

I'm trying to locate the tool from someone and I'm having difficulty locating, unless I take the bike to a specialised tool shop to see if they might have one to buy.

Thanks again.


By Cplus on Sunday, November 24, 2002 - 04:41 pm:  View Cplus's Profile Search for other posts by Cplus Edit this post


I borrowed one from the local 'Priller dealer. I don't think you'll find one anywhere but from a dealer, unless you make one yourself. I think it would be possible to do so out of an old socket if you have the time.

Good luck!  

By Dave on Sunday, November 24, 2002 - 06:34 pm:  View Dave's Profile Search for other posts by Dave Edit this post

Ex, you could improvise with a small lenth of reasonably thick walled pipe of the correct diameter and hacksaw/drill out slots to match the castle nut. drill a couple of holes to take a screwdriver. Piece a' piss  

By Exdukenut on Sunday, November 24, 2002 - 08:44 pm:  View Exdukenut's Profile Search for other posts by Exdukenut Edit this post

Tks for the thought Dave, I've been thinking about how to make something that would work, and the thick walled pipe has been thought of. It's just I don't have the tool making facilities, here at home. A friend does however, but with the baby in tow, it makes it very hard to take the bike to him for consultation.

I'll keep you posted, as to how I get on.

Cplus, how "tourqued" is that particular castle nut do you think? Really hard, relatively, or not at all?

It's a real pain that my dealer went bust, I can assure you! They were very convenient, and had all the right tools, as they were only too happy to assist with the borrowing.



By Dave on Monday, November 25, 2002 - 05:52 am:  View Dave's Profile Search for other posts by Dave Edit this post

How about making some kind of mold - plasticine? and sending that off to him?

The castle nut is 60 Nm, the axle nut is 90Nm, from my mechanic, tho from memory I don't think he used a tourque-wrench when doing mine - Cplus?

Has anyone found a workshop manual yet in electronic form? er, and care to share? 

By Litre1 on Monday, November 25, 2002 - 07:36 am:  View Litre1's Profile Search for other posts by Litre1 Edit this post

I second the question on the shop manual. Anyone?  

By Falcorob on Monday, November 25, 2002 - 07:42 am:  View Falcorob's Profile Search for other posts by Falcorob Edit this post

Thirded. Then all I would need is the skill and aptitude to use it

Still want one though.


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