By Paul on Monday, August 05, 2002 - 03:59 am:

I know this is a hot topic at the moment so I'm looking for some advice. I felt the dreaded clutch slip on Saturday (bike has done just under 9000 miles), accelerating hard in second it gripped, slipped and eventually gripped again and then proceeded to do the same in 3rd and 4th gears too. I guess it's time to replace the clutch and after reading the article on Daz's two wheel racing site and the information on Ken's site I was thinking of getting a Barnett clutch to replace my old one (consensus seemed to suggest it's a similar price to an aprilia standard model) I rand PDQ to be told that it was around 160 quid all-in. A lot more than I'd been expecting compared to the 60-ish quid for new friction plates for the aprilia clutch. My Question is - does anyone use a barnett clutch, and does it last any longer than the aprilia one? Is it enough to only replace the friction plates or should I replace the steels and springs also?

Another thing that some of you may be interested in is my experience with another long standing problem - brake disk warp. I'd noticed after long spells of fast riding a vibration appeared under heavy braking, very noticable from speeds above 50 mph. Since the bike was due for a service I asked my dealer to have a look, they stripped my discs and cleaned the buttons which hold the disc to the rotor, the result? No more vibration. Apparently the buttons get crudded up with brake dust and road dirt and seize, causing the brakes to change shape and warp when hot as they can't float. I don't know if this is the whole problem in every case but the remedy has certainly fixed my problem, the vibration has gone from finger-numbing to nothing since the strip and clean. Hope this might be useful info for people in a similar situation to me and who are considering new discs.
Cheers,

Paul  

By Scotteq on Monday, August 05, 2002 - 07:58 am:

Here in the US, it was $150 for a complete clutch - Frictions, steels and springs. I have a 2000.5 Falco, and bought it to get the upgraded new clutch. I did the install myself, but figure an hour's labor (minimum charge, right???) for the installation. Given the exchange rate, the costs you were quoted seem in line.

Some folks have had good results by simply 'resurfacing' the steels with sandpaper or on a handy piece of concrete...

Scott  

By Befbever on Monday, August 05, 2002 - 08:03 am:

As per Scotty's info, the steels are covered by the warranty so I'd replace them for sure. I paid �90 (£57) for the frictions at my dealer's.
Do not replace the springs, there won't be anything wrong with them.

That brake disc info is very interesting, thanks Paul.  

By Tbone on Monday, August 05, 2002 - 08:07 am:

quicky on brakes: get rid of sintered pads unless you're a maniac rider or do track days a lot -- then just change them every 5000km or sand down galvanized surface -- I believe that due to sintered pad wear (or lack thereof) they turn basically to rock. Not a good combination with stainless steel disks...

Ahh, that clutch. I bought frictions from aprilia and replaced at around 20,000km (initial slippage started around 12,000km for me). I did the job myself and while cursing aprilia/rotax for making/selling such a stupid clutch I was rather relieved at the ease of changing the frictions. I now have around 6-7000km on new frictions and the clutch is acting up again but it doesn't seem to be slipping now it's just disengaging and engaging before I release lever. Any hints? I'm in the market for a wrecked Mille with a good clutch which I will simply use to replace 2000.5 Falco unit.

Good luck.

tbone  

By Paul on Monday, August 05, 2002 - 08:10 am:

Thanks for the advice, the prices I've been quoted do seem about right, guess I'll have to get used to splashing out for new frictions every few thousand miles. Good thing the bike is so great the rest of the time, or I'd be a very unhappy bunny...