Oil level and Service Warning

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By Noonie on Tuesday, July 30, 2002 - 05:53 am:  View Noonie's Profile Search for other posts by Noonie Edit this post

My Falco is just coming upto 9000 miles and having just returned from Brands after the WSB I decided to change the oil. The problem I am having is that the manual states to put in 3500 cm3 which I guess is the equivalent to 3.5 Litre's in english. After doing this and checking the level after a little run the min mark was just being hit.

My question is does anyone know the exact quantity of oil to replace in litre's please. Also I have used a full Syn oil 15w/50 is this going to cause problems?

The next question is regarding the 15k service. As I understand at 15k the "SERVICE" indicator comes on in the right hand display. Not wanting to take out the expensive oil just replaced I was woundering is it possible to turn of the service indicator so to kid the onboard computer?

Oh, one last question to you fellow Falco's guys and gals, when I have the rear wheel off the ground i.e on a padock stand and select 1st gear with THE CLUTCH PULLED IN the back wheel routates at a high speed? back on the ground when I select 1st now and then it cuts out. Do I have a clutch problem or is there an adjustment I can make.

Cheer

Andy. 

By Andyjfalco on Tuesday, July 30, 2002 - 06:08 am:  View Andyjfalco's Profile Search for other posts by Andyjfalco Edit this post

Hello mate, I think the common opinion is that it's a bad idea to use fully synthetic oil. The reasons are that it can cause the clutch to slip under hard power. I'm not sure, but it may also cause the clutch plates to stick which would explain yours stalling/cutting out. The service indicator can be reset, it's in the hand book or in one of the other threads on this site. Enjoy, Andy.  

By Andyjfalco on Tuesday, July 30, 2002 - 06:08 am:  View Andyjfalco's Profile Search for other posts by Andyjfalco Edit this post

Hello mate, I think the common opinion is that it's a bad idea to use fully synthetic oil. The reasonskare that it can cause the clutch to slip under hard power. I'm not sure, but it may also cause the clutch plates to stick which would explain yours stalling/cutting out. The service indicator can be reset, it's in the hand book or in one of the other threads on this site. Enjoy, Andy.  

By Andyjfalco on Tuesday, July 30, 2002 - 06:15 am:  View Andyjfalco's Profile Search for other posts by Andyjfalco Edit this post

Why did I post that twice? Answers to the usual address... 

By Crmc33 on Tuesday, July 30, 2002 - 06:58 am:  View Crmc33's Profile Search for other posts by Crmc33 Edit this post

Noonie,

from the symptoms youve mentioned it sounds like your clutch is dragging ie. when you pull the clutch in its not totally disengaging the drive.
Its common for bikes to lurch forward when selecting first gear and the oil is cold but it should not stall the engine.

You can help reduce this effect by using thinner 10/40 oil (having used both grades Ive gone back to semi-synth 10/40 - reduces drag and slip it seems) and by making sure that your clutch hydraulics are bled properly. Any air in the system will obviously affect the effectiveness of the clutch.

HTH

 

By Falcofra on Tuesday, July 30, 2002 - 07:05 am:  View Falcofra's Profile Search for other posts by Falcofra Edit this post

Hi Andy
I have used fully synthetic oil for 9000 miles in the Falco without any clutch problems.
The oil level is a bit hit and miss but 3500 ml should put it half way between max and min. You must run the engine until properly hot then let it stand for a couple of minutes before checking the level. Do not over fill or you could find your precious fluid lubricating your rear tyre.(not recommended)
The rear wheel will spin if its off the ground, there is always some drag on a wet clutch especially when cold.
Reset the service light by holding headlamp flash + R button for 5 secs.
Fraser.  

By Crmc33 on Tuesday, July 30, 2002 - 07:08 am:  View Crmc33's Profile Search for other posts by Crmc33 Edit this post

is that hold the headlamp, flash, and press the reset button? Be careful who you flash at, even tho the weather has been rather warm of late, its best to make sure theres no police around when you do it.

HTH
 

By Rca on Tuesday, July 30, 2002 - 08:15 am:  View Rca's Profile Search for other posts by Rca Edit this post

>> ... As I understand at 15k the "SERVICE" indicator comes on in the right hand display. ... I was woundering is it possible to turn of the service indicator so to kid the onboard computer? <<

Me thinks you attest too much intelligence to the onboard computer. Surely you don't think when you reset it it's going to refuse to reset cos you didn't complete the service properly. Mind you with all the crappy dealers around it would be nice if it could. In fact there is bound to be some dealer who considers the reset as the only service item thats necessary.  

By Scotteq on Tuesday, July 30, 2002 - 09:46 am:  View Scotteq's Profile Search for other posts by Scotteq Edit this post

To reset the service indicator, Key on, then
Press Lap and R for 5 seconds. It'll go out.

My Falco gets a steady diet of good full synth - Though I do use motorcycle specific oil. 27,000 miles and counting. Automotive stuff contains additives aimed at improving mileage through reduced internal friction... Good idea, but for us it's akin to spraying teflon on the clutch plates.

Scott :)  

By Brucecalhoon on Tuesday, July 30, 2002 - 10:13 am:  View Brucecalhoon's Profile Search for other posts by Brucecalhoon Edit this post

Being anal retentive about oil, I measured what came out when I changed it... 3.75l, so that is what I put back in and have no issues with oil level (constang .75 max when observed correctly). I use 15w 50 semi-synthetic and have had no problems.

Bruce.  

By Noonie on Tuesday, July 30, 2002 - 12:03 pm:  View Noonie's Profile Search for other posts by Noonie Edit this post

Thanks for all the information it's been a big help. I have listed another problem I have on a new message all your help would be great.

FALCO'S STILL RULE!!!!!! 

By Oldgit on Tuesday, July 30, 2002 - 12:43 pm:  View Oldgit's Profile Search for other posts by Oldgit Edit this post

While we are on the subject of clutches, today I replaced my broken clutch lever.
Now I have read many times of heavy clutch action with the falco, never thought mine was to bad, but since fitting the replacment lever, it's heavy man! So maybe it will need bleeding but seems odd, anyone know the answer.  

By Scotteq on Wednesday, July 31, 2002 - 07:40 am:  View Scotteq's Profile Search for other posts by Scotteq Edit this post

It's heavy....

When it showed signs it was beginning to fail (system would lose pressure and I'd have to bleed again to get it back - evidenced by notchy shifting) I replaced my slave cylinder with one from Evoluzione, and replaced the line with a braided steel one as well. Still not as light as the VFR I had, but it's MUCH better than it was.

Scott :)  

By Befbever on Wednesday, July 31, 2002 - 07:56 am:  View Befbever's Profile Search for other posts by Befbever Edit this post


Polishing the pushrod vastly improves the smoothness of the clutch lever. And greasing the lever too, of course. You know where the info's at, Oldgit. Twowheelsracing etc..

OTE 

By Oldgit on Wednesday, July 31, 2002 - 09:25 am:  View Oldgit's Profile Search for other posts by Oldgit Edit this post

Scott, reckon I will pull the cylinder apart when I get full use of my right arm back, I will try and match the seals at my local auto shop, someone will have the size it's just finding it.

Bef, I have often wondered if chain grease, that stuff gets everywhere, is the reason the clutch gets heavy, due to it getting on the push rod. I haven't looked at the falco's clutch operation yet, is that possible? as I said I haven't had a problem with heavy lever operation until I changed my lever, I only use oil on my chain as I know you do, could this be why my clutch is normaly ok?  

By Befbever on Wednesday, July 31, 2002 - 09:46 am:  View Befbever's Profile Search for other posts by Befbever Edit this post


Well, Oldgit, when we took the leaking OE slave cylinder off, the inside was full of muck. But that clearly was clutch fluid, not chain grease.

I've got the Mille sprocket cover now and the chain grease is confined to the inside of the cover and of course the side stand area - I don't clean the bike much.

The push rod does get notched. It's not difficult to take it out. Check Ken's site for that.

If anyone cares, the slave cylinder has the word 'Rotax' on the inside. It's therefore not an Italian thingy. Hear that, Scotty?  


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