|By Jonno on Friday, July 19, 2002 - 12:34 pm:|
Assuming I do end up doing this, what is the best oil to put in the beasty ? Avoiding clutch probs etc ?
|By Daz on Friday, July 19, 2002 - 12:41 pm:|
cmrc33 put in fully synth and got clutch slippage, helping to prove that semi-synth is the way to go or stay...
|By Crmc33 on Saturday, July 20, 2002 - 02:50 am:|
Ignore Daz, hes just making things up!
I actually went from 10/40 semi synth (no clutch slip) to 15/50 non synth and got clutch slip. Im now changing back to 10/40 semi synth.
This proved to me that it is the viscosity that causes the problems more than the synthetic component. The thinner oil centrifuges out of the clutch it appears. Either that or the thinner oil doesnt cling to the steel plates quite so readily.
I spoke to my local german Aprilia dealer and I mentioned that Aprilia recommend 15/50 grade oil. He backed up what I had already found. "We use 10/40 semi synth in all the mille engines we service" he said.
So I would recommend 10/40 semi synthetic. I think Bef has also found this on his high mileage 'old banger'
|By Befbever on Saturday, July 20, 2002 - 11:14 pm:|
Yep, C.'s right. 10w40 is definitely the way to go. Oil consumption hasn't gone up since the switch btw.
And although I've got only 23k miles on my 'old banger', they're accumulated on a daily basis. And that shows.
|By Bob on Tuesday, July 30, 2002 - 03:02 am:|
And yes it started with me aswell with the slipping clutch ( after 20k kms).
But I had already 10w40 in the bike. Then we putted 10w50 in it but it is still slipping.I only have BOS exhaust so I don't think that the power has increased so much. Can someone help me.
Something else. I used to ride with the 15 T sprocket and now I changed to 16T in front and 43T in the back ( had to change the chain anyhow). I believe it runs smoother and for sure makes less noise.
|By Philg on Tuesday, July 30, 2002 - 03:57 am:|
I topped mine up(2000 miles) with semi synthetic 15/50 after speaking to the dealer I use in Cheltenham.
He said that the fully synthetic glazed the clutch plates and that was what caused the problem, no problems with that myself but watch this space!
Cant remember the make and the container is at home , I'm at work!
|By Crmc33 on Tuesday, July 30, 2002 - 03:59 am:|
Bob, I would guess that it may be time for new clutch plates. It might be worth checking them to see if the steels are glazed and/or the friction plates are worn.
|By Culprit on Tuesday, July 30, 2002 - 04:24 pm:|
i'm running Mobile 1 (full synth, 15w-50, yeah it's car oil), and have from day one. i now have 15k miles on it, and have never had a clutch slippage problem, including on the track. my mechanic recommended this, and at $5/quart it's definately a good deal.
my boyfriend uses Bardahl 20w50 semi synth in his falco, also no problems. so seems that it's mostly personal preference and superstition.
|By Aviator� on Tuesday, July 30, 2002 - 11:12 pm:|
Watch out for the mobil 1, every flavor of fully synth mobil 1 they had locally had the "energy conserving" label on the back for friction modifiers.
|By Prilliant on Wednesday, July 31, 2002 - 05:09 am:|
I was always led to believe that on no account should you use car oils in bikes because bike oil has to lubricate the gearbox as well as the engine. This puts the oil under stresses it would never encounter in a car. My mate Chris put car oil into his FJ1200 before our trip to Barcelona and had serious trouble with oil consumption throughout the trip. He must've had to put about 5 litres in over the course of 3000 miles.
|By Crmc33 on Wednesday, July 31, 2002 - 05:24 am:|
Any oil suitable for farm machinery is OK in the Falco engine as the Rotax V-twin was originally designed as a rotavator engine and cow milking pump, before they added the balance shafts of course
Seriously tho, I believe you are correct about the use of car oil in bike engines. Whatever oil you use I would always recommend regular oil changes no matter how good the oil is supposed to be.
|By Culprit on Wednesday, July 31, 2002 - 08:32 am:|
i always double check the label, and i'm pretty sure that none of the 15w50 mobile 1 is "energy conserving" (though other viscosities seem to be). i know this is heresy , but my mechanic is the one who suggested mobile 1, and i trust him completely. i've had no oil consumption issues, and no problems with the engine, transmission, or clutch.
here's an interesting article about motorcycle vs car oils: http://www.xs11.com/stories/mcnoil94.htm
|By Racerxlilbro on Wednesday, July 31, 2002 - 08:32 am:|
Funny, I've had great success with Colavita Extra Virgin Olive Oil. Just be sure it's a "first pressing." Besides, if you put a little garlic in the airbox, the exhaust smells a-just-a-like-a-pizza-pie!
|By Prilliant on Wednesday, July 31, 2002 - 09:45 am:|
He has chewed through the restraints again!!! Insane, the lot o' yers
|By Crmc33 on Wednesday, July 31, 2002 - 12:49 pm:|
I found the extra virgin kind is very nice. Much better than just ordinary virgin.
Keeps things much tighter in the engine department!
|By Aviator� on Wednesday, July 31, 2002 - 09:37 pm:|
i always double check the label, and i'm pretty sure that none of the 15w50 mobile 1 is "energy conserving" (though other viscosities seem to be).
|By Falcofra on Thursday, August 01, 2002 - 02:36 am:|
You guys who think car engine oil is not designed for gearboxes must still be driving round in Mk 1 Escorts or Land Rovers!!
I've used full synth 10-40 for max. engine protection and had no clutch problems yet.
The clutch is far easier and cheaper to replace than a crank or cam shaft.
By the way, I'm heading south tomorrow for Barcelona on my Falco. Report back in a couple of weeks.
|By Crmc33 on Thursday, August 01, 2002 - 02:54 am:|
car engine oil isnt designed for gearboxes!
Gearbox oil is designed for car gearboxes!
But I do drive a Skoda (when no-ones looking)
|By Diablo_Mille_R on Thursday, August 01, 2002 - 02:57 am:|
Gotta disagree FalcoFra, car engine oil is designed to be used on relatively low RPM high torque engines with dry clutches, bike oil is designed for high rpm lower torque engines with straight cut boxes sharing the oil, and running a wet clutch. Putting car oil in the bike is risking problems in the future, just look what happens when you put mobil 1 in a car engine that has previously run mineral oil.......I've seen race engines eat themselves coz the oils seperated and the only way to change from mineral to Mobil1 is to strip the engine completely and clean every single bit of oil out.
Just my 2p...
|By Daz on Thursday, August 01, 2002 - 03:13 am:|
Have a great time Fraser, ya lucky ghet!
|By Crmc33 on Thursday, August 01, 2002 - 03:44 am:|
is it still raining in Englund?
Its 33C and sunny here and that was at 8.30 last night!
Too flackin HOT! About 40C today.... Ive spontaneously combusted twice this morning!
|By Benw on Thursday, August 01, 2002 - 04:10 am:|
Burn Baby, Burn!
|By Prilliant on Thursday, August 01, 2002 - 09:34 am:|
Falcofra, have a good trip. If you have half as good a time as we did you won't want to come home.
Safe Riding, Neil
|By Falcofra on Thursday, August 01, 2002 - 10:16 am:|
can't wait to get South of this rain. Persisting down all day here in Llangollen.
I didn't say I would use car oil in my bike, I just meant that things have changed since the they invented the transverse engine. I actually use Silcolene comp 4 or Bel Ray Racing full synth.
Just changed the oil in one of the machines in work which takes 300 Litres of synth' gear oil at £6/litre!! The Falco seems cheap to service after that.
|By Jonno on Friday, August 02, 2002 - 12:55 am:|
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