By Mark on Friday, May 24, 2002 - 07:44 am:

Im not strictly a newbie having resided over on RS from the beginning. Mainly over here to bother Rod and most others!

I have been doing a work trial through the Job Centre and at the end may have a part time job as a semi qualified (still attending college) technician (spannermonkey) at a local Aprilia dealer.

So basically now need to learn all things Aprilia!

I know they're Italian and based in Scotland(?!) and make big v twins, a single, RS race replica strokers and lots of scooters and thats about it.

So c'mon feed me with info! Oh and can someone book an RS250 in for a service coz i want to have a go on one of them! 

By Befbever on Friday, May 24, 2002 - 07:50 am:

They're based in Noale, Italy, Mark. The UK importer is in Scotland.
Here endeth lesson # 1.  

By Befbever on Friday, May 24, 2002 - 07:53 am:

Here's a useful site. You'll find links there to Ken's site and others. 

By Mark on Friday, May 24, 2002 - 10:32 am:

I keep getting Connection refused, must be my aftersahve!!  

By Diablo_Mille_R on Friday, May 24, 2002 - 11:33 am:

Any chance you can tell us which dealer, just so I don't take my bike there to be used as a toy for the spannermonkeys. The dealers are generally shit enough already.  

By Powermaster on Friday, May 24, 2002 - 12:13 pm:

Oi Diablo, give the Kid a chance, after all Trev could do with a Spanner  

By Diablo_Mille_R on Friday, May 24, 2002 - 01:09 pm:

Fair enough Jorge, but I did not spend 10 grand on a bike to have it thought of as a play thing for YTS lads, and I am sure you would feel the same about your bike. Everyone deserves a fair break, but not on my bike thanks. Aprilia have training courses for that. As i said there, sadly, are very few dealers that are trustworthy. Any dealer that has mechanics that regard customers bikes as toys will be one I avoid, just tell me which one.  

By Mark on Saturday, May 25, 2002 - 08:55 am:

Nice welcome from you Diablo_mille_R.

Perhaps you should get all the facts before you start spouting off.

Firstly i am not some 16 year old spotty youth on a YTS scheme. I am a 34 year old who has ridden bikes since I was 16, progressing to super bikes of their day (750turbo and 1000RX) at the tender age of 17. I currently ride a GSXR1100 which puts down over 125hp at the rear wheel, which is more than a standard Mille. I have toured most of France on it, done several trackdays where its been commented on just how quick it is for a 12 year old bike.

I gave up my job last year to attend college for two years on a City and Guilds course which is the industry recognised training scheme. I have always worked on my bikes from adjusting the chain right through to changing con rods and fitting big bore kits etc. I just decided now is the time to get the official qualification.

I would like a go on an RS250 because I like two strokes and you dont have to thrash a bike to enjoy it. I took out a customers Mille the other day and the fact it was a customers bike was paramount in my mind and was treated with respect. It seems you have a jaded view on dealers which is your choice but to generalise and basically be downright rude to me with your narrow minded assumptions is not very adult is it.

So once again Diablo thank you for your warm welcome to this site. 

By Daz on Saturday, May 25, 2002 - 09:37 am:

LOL! Even though I'm only a relative biking newbie (about 6 years now) I can't help but regard all dealerships with UTTER distrust - I wouldn't get my bike serviced at a dealer if it wasn't for the fact that the warranty only stands if you get those fuggin' stamps in the service book.

Sorry Mark - I'm sure there are loads of great dealerships and hence great mechanics out there but there are so many horror stories and such like going around that our opinions can't help be affected.

Best of luck anyway - and for info on Aprilias the best place to start is www.aprilia.com ! or your dealership may even have the official aprilia servicing leaflets available.

Good luck with the job!

Daz 

By Mark on Saturday, May 25, 2002 - 09:48 am:

I to distrust lots of dealers to Daz, I prefer the smaller ones because you can get to know them and actually talk to the technicians who work on your bike. Places like Carnell etc wheel your bike through some doors and thats all you see until you collect it. The place Im working is a small place and personally I like to talk to the customers because you can get a better idea of any problems they may be having.

When I was after info I should've said more like info on common problems owners may have expereinced, we have all the technical manuals etc.  

By Daz on Saturday, May 25, 2002 - 10:32 am:

Ah!

Have you managed to connect to my site yet mark?

There's two databases on there - one on dealers, one on faults - you might get some good info there. Another way is to trawl through all the threads here or just keep checking in every day or to see what's new.

http://www.growthlog.com/falco/dealers.asp
http://www.growthlog.com/falco/apriliafaults.asp

Cheers,

Daz  

By Mark on Saturday, May 25, 2002 - 10:39 am:

Got to it now. It will be added to my favourites and I do plan to keep an eye open in here. Im the sort of person who likes to find out as much as possible about things Im dealing with and can be a bit of a perfectionist when working on things. Cheers for that Daz.  

By Mr_Venjer on Monday, May 27, 2002 - 03:22 am:

Mark, I can't help but think that your comments were taken a bit toooo seriously by Mr Rich DMR. He is cool and the gang though and very helpful.

Welcome friend.

Kevin  

By Mr_Venjer on Monday, May 27, 2002 - 03:23 am:

Sorry that should be diablo_mille_r.

Peace  

By Diablo_Mille_R on Monday, May 27, 2002 - 03:54 am:

Me and Mark had a few emails off board and maybe understand each other a bit more. Hopefully he can help improve the Aprilia dealer network, Mark seems to have started off with the right attitude, I guess not many official dealer mechanics hang around on discussion groups to get more info. Credit where it is due.

My rant was aimed at the Aprilia dealer network generally, not Mark in person but maybe this did not come across too well

Cheers,
Rich DMR 

By Powermaster on Monday, May 27, 2002 - 06:22 am:

---

Quote:

Me and Mark had a few emails off board and maybe understand each other a bit more.

---

By Diablo_Mille_R on Monday, May 27, 2002 - 06:32 am:

Jorge, I don't understand myself sometimes, let alone others , now where, was that Richard Scarry book.......? 

By Mark on Monday, May 27, 2002 - 09:52 am:

OI JORGE NO!!! lol.

Anyhow, its me not understanding you most of the time!!!

Things are OK now between Rich and myself and I look forward to becoming more involved here as things progress.  

By Befbever on Monday, May 27, 2002 - 10:54 am:

Okay, Mark, here's a challenge for you: why does the Falco/Mille clutch slip?

I'll tell you what isn't the cause before you start your little grey cells going:

1. Mileage.
Clutches have been known to start slipping early on or at relatively high mileages.
2. Abuse.
I hardly use mine and certainly don't abuse it. I've never had to change a clutch before.
3. Oil brand
People have been using all kinds of brands to try and solve the problem.

That leaves:

1. Viscosity
But Aprilia recommends 15W50....
2. Design faults
Some have them, some don't?
3. Stress
I know I'm getting stressed.

The clutch for the Mille 2002 has been re-designed and costs approx. three times more now.

Any fresh input is greatly appreciated.
 

By Mark on Tuesday, May 28, 2002 - 06:50 am:

Hmmm, tricky one. As I expect you all know most clutches work on the one friction plate, one plain plate and so on principle clamped together by springs or spring in diaphragm types like my GSXR. Also the clutch turns roughly three times slower than the crank all to do with gear teeth. Its bigger on the clutch to give it mechanical advatage. When I get the opportuntiy to measure the parts in Mille/Falco clutches I should be able to give the force etc in Nm.

Usually slip is down to worn friction plates, warped plates will also cause slip in extreme cases. Kawasaki suggested not to use fully synthetic of the SK or SL variety at one point as that was causing clutch slip. But as different grades have been tried its eliminated this. I would be tempted to try 10w/40 to satsify curiosity then go from there.

Next I would suspect not to good friction plates (as in not terribly well made) so has anyone fitted any aftermarket clutch plates and solved it?

Finally the springs, as a clutch wears the springs clamping force is reduced. I would measure the free lengths and measure the force taken to compress them. Again has anyone fitted uprated springs?

Not had an Aprilia clutch apart yet so going on my knowledge of Jap clutches.

And I will ask the boss tomorrow when I return to work and see if he "knows" anything if you see what I mean. 

By Diablo_Mille_R on Tuesday, May 28, 2002 - 07:00 am:

The primary reduction on the Mille is 1.935, giving about 160ft-lb of torque, or 220Nm ish through the clutch. Which is quite a bit actually.

Cheers,
Rich  

By Alan on Tuesday, May 28, 2002 - 07:33 am:

I don't think any of us need a lesson on how a clutch works.

The annoying fact is the RSV / Falco unit is pants. Without abuse my steel clutch plates were shot after 800 miles.

Al.  

By Mark on Tuesday, May 28, 2002 - 08:01 am:

Sorry Alan, I did put in "As I expect you all know" at the beginning. I just thought there may be a couple of people that might not have and only listed it to work through different options. I just thought a methodical approach was most sensible.

I have now learnt something from DMR so it was useful for me.

Im sorry if you dont appreciate my thoughts Alan and generally apologise to everyone else here for insulting your intelligence on what was stating the obvious.

As Im new here I was hoping people would cut me a bit of slack or at least until I've "got to know" people and there levels of mechanical knowledge. From now on I will assume all know 99% of Engine Technology. 

By Benw on Tuesday, May 28, 2002 - 08:19 am:

Alan,

I'm sure you know everything there is to know about the Aprilia, it's engine and running gear; Not *everybody* does. If the clutch is officially "pants" as you say, what is the problem? Please explain, I'm sure we can all learn from your extensive knowledge...

Mark, feel free to add whatever you like, explanations and all. I'm sure we'll all pick up something new.
B  

By Daz on Tuesday, May 28, 2002 - 08:39 am:

Er, we're all a bit touchy today eh?!

Everyone - CHILL! I'll put the kettle on, one lump or two?!

Mark - fingers crossed the boss 'knows' something...  

By Mark on Tuesday, May 28, 2002 - 08:59 am:

Not touchy, Alan could have said HE didnt need a lesson on clutches but chose to say "any of us" so speaking for all.

Im not touchy, just wish people would think sometimes before they post as how their posts "sound" on a personal level and how people might feel about them, thats all.

Im chilled  

By Daz on Tuesday, May 28, 2002 - 09:39 am:

I totally agree Mark, ya prat! (j/k!)  

By Spoof on Tuesday, May 28, 2002 - 09:45 am:

I'll second an appreciation of your putting some thought into the clutch issue, Mark. Although you've not yet taken apart an Aprilia clutch, an outside perspective is sometimes helpful. Are you aware, also, that the mille/falco uses a "slipper clutch"?  

By Befbever on Tuesday, May 28, 2002 - 09:46 am:

Your input is much appreciated, Mark. No worries.

Let me correct myself now: the friction plates for the 2002 Mille are almost 3 times the price of the old ones. The Falco ones are around 90 Euro overhere. Just friction plates. Together with steels almost 200 Euro. How I know? Don't ask.

I wouldn't be tempted to use 10W40 myself, but I mite try 10W50 soon. To be continued.....
 

By Mark on Tuesday, May 28, 2002 - 10:28 am:

10/40 was only a suggestion as a starting point. As Aprilia recommend 15/50 this is the stuff to use. I just wondered if the viscosity difference would've made any differences.

Spoof, I wasnt but am now! Looking into it it vacuum operated which is quite intriguing. I can see lots of reading and research coming up for me to find out exactly how it works. I also note Barnett do a set of plates, has anyone tried these and does it cure it? 

By Powermaster on Tuesday, May 28, 2002 - 11:35 am:

Hi Mark, if I did not know you "longer", I would say, "I am pround of you", But as you did not trust my dyno readings, I am going to venture and say that you have a lot to read about the Aprilia.

Bef, remember 10/40, How long have I been telling you but do you ever listen, must be something to do with my Flemish translation.
 

By Guzzi on Tuesday, May 28, 2002 - 11:40 am:

Great thread guys

Mark: A good way to unbutton the Aprilia range is to ask a friendly dealer for a copy of the "Aprilia Technical Training" CD.

Dave 

By Mark on Tuesday, May 28, 2002 - 12:03 pm:

Jorge, Who said I didnt trust them? mmmmm? I am of the philosophy of stick to one Dyno so any improvements are measured against a known reading!! When I was there and the RSV was there you were working on the Eproms, straight off your pipe improved top end over the Akra...... pipe, never denied that!

If its OK with you I'll come down the factory one day and you can get me up to date with whats been going on. 

By Mr_Venjer on Tuesday, May 28, 2002 - 12:18 pm:

Al, what is your major malfunction. I need a lesson in anything mechanical. If you know everything then fine. This guy is kindly opening my eyes and if I learn one little thing it would have been worth it.

I love riding my bike in rain or shine and if I can get to check things by myself without going to thieving robbing arab (no offence) bastids then thats better for me. And most people on this site DO NOT know how a clutch works otherwise there would not be a million and one questions on it all the time.

Venjer  

By Powermaster on Tuesday, May 28, 2002 - 01:11 pm:

Come on guys, Al's outburst was more to Aprilia and the fact that his clutch probably start slipping, I am sure he did not mean to take it out on Mark, , I do but I can never win 

By Crmc33 on Tuesday, May 28, 2002 - 11:05 pm:

On the clutch question;
It seems odd to me that some riders suffer clutch slip early on in the bikes life, some later on in the bikes life and some not at all (so far).

I doubt that one mass produced clutch to the next should vary in dimensions considerably.
Therefore, if the same design of clutch slips on one bike and not on the other then I think this may indicate that;
a) it may not be a clutch related problem at all and more to do with the setup/actuation mechanism, OR
b) it may just come down to how hard / style the bikes been ridden.

If a)=true then maybe the oil grade/type and clutch fluid level are important factors.
If b)=true then maybe the usage the bike gets (trackdays/hard acceleration between the lights etc/long motorway mileage/wheelies/intentional clutch slip at high RPM)

Maybe the clutch slip question is a suitable one for a riders database? Theres a chance that if everyone submits their experiences that a common trend will appear. I realise that we're doing Aprilias job 4 them!

I personally havent suffered any clutch slip yet since new. The bike has done 4000 miles, been ridden on various roads including lots of hard acceleration between traffic lights and approx 1500 miles at Autobahn speeds. Ive been using 10/40 Yacco Semi synth Oil since the first service. I reckon I use the clutch about 60% of the time going up the box (never use it when 'going for it') and always use it going down the gears.

Has anyone noticed that there clutch slips after a decent run at high speed along a autobahn/motorway? ie. A long high speed (at constant speed) run may help to clear the clutch of excessive oil. After such a run, if the bike is then accelerated hard from a standstill, does the clutch slip? If it doesnt then I think this indicates the problem.

I used to have this problem on my classicracer, eventually soretd by running very thin JCB transmission fluid in the gearbox. This stuff is basically Dexron ATF which has high amounts of friction reducers in it....completey against what you would think would help. This oil not only made the clutch drag less when cold (no clunky gear changes, able to push start the bike easier) but also removed the clutch slip when hot. I think this was cos the oil could escape from the plates easily. Obviously, you cant run this stuff in an engine that shares the engine/gearbox oil but it may give a clue to the cheapest solution for the Mille clutch.... a lower viscosity oil to what Aprilia recommend? My use of 10/40 and no clutch slip seems to back this up also altho I know my bikes still 'young'.

Unfortunately I dont have the answer but I hope theres some ideas here and plenty to feed further arguments!

Yours Sincerely,
Norma Sclutch

xx 

By Mental_Trev on Wednesday, May 29, 2002 - 12:35 am:

---

Quote:

I also note Barnett do a set of plates, has anyone tried these and does it cure it?

---

By Befbever on Wednesday, May 29, 2002 - 04:24 am:

---

Quote:

Bef, remember 10/40, How long have I been telling you but do you ever listen, must be something to do with my Flemish translation.

---

---

Quote:

Has anyone noticed that their clutch slips after a decent run at high speed along a autobahn/motorway? ie. A long high speed (at constant speed) run may help to clear the clutch of excessive oil. After such a run, if the bike is then accelerated hard from a standstill, does the clutch slip? If it doesnt then I think this indicates the problem.

---

By Aprilliag on Wednesday, May 29, 2002 - 07:46 am:

I admit to knowing very little about Clutches But cannot help thinking that CRMC33 may have a good point Perhaps people are looking in the wrong place,but as i say I don't know bugger all about all the Oily stuff on a bike.One thing though I know the Mille has a slipper clutch to prevent engine overbreaking on downchanges,(I Think)If this had not fully disengauged could it affect the clutch on the upchanges or are they completely seperate of each other.Please don't all riddicule at the same time,  

By Mark on Wednesday, May 29, 2002 - 10:00 am:

Right, asked today and NONE of our customers have experienced clutch slip, or at least not said anything which I dont think would happen!!

The boss said oil straight away, we use Putoline at Aprilias recommended 15w/50, but I believe now Motrex is recommended.

Crmrc33 post makes interesting reading. Aprilliag, Im not gonna riddicule you at all coz Im not like that. I looked in the Mille workshop manual today, the pictures showed the diaphragm etc but once thats removed it appeared to be a normal clutch, which obviously it isnt so I am now trying to work out their method of making it slip!

I might just have to take a headache tablet and lie down!!  

By Befbever on Wednesday, May 29, 2002 - 10:46 am:

Mark,

Re: your boss: don't take this the wrong way, but I've had a talk with my dealer about the same subject:
NONE of his clients' clutches slip at relatively low mileage. Odd, because there are definitely enough of those around on these boards. Hence my question to him: 'do these Millenauts ride fast enough anyway?'. Who's to know?

Oil: he uses the same Motul 300V 15/50 for all his RSV engines. I'm not convinced about its effectivity in these particular engines with the slipper clutch. He also races these bikes, on National level this year, but the last few years in the World Endurance Championship. My humblest of opinions: so what? I ride on the roads and accumulate miles. Well, kilometers actually. But I digress.
He raced a Falco engine in his Mille just a few days ago at Spa. No clutch slip, despite 10k miles on the engine.

He uses an extra steel to prevent clutch slip on track days and such. That means the stack starts with two steels and ends with one with curved teeth to prevent it from falling off the hub. It only made matters worse on my bike.

Anyway, we'll get there in the end. And it's good to have someone with a fresh view on things. Can't hurt to ask, I thought.

 

By Singlesman on Wednesday, May 29, 2002 - 12:23 pm:

Hi Mark, as Mental Trev pointed out, both Sreeeech and myself have resorted to buying Barnett clutches, having tried just about everything we or anyone else who frequents this site could think of to stop them slipping. After a couple of road outings the clutch seems to be fine, but a track day at Donninton on Sunday should give it a proper test, will keep you posted. Trev, I still don't understand why you don't have any problems with yours, you'd tell us if you had found a cure, wouldn't you ? 

By Mental_Trev on Thursday, May 30, 2002 - 12:35 am:

I would indeed, Paul, but as I'm often heard to say at work, "If it aint broke, don't 'fix' it!".

Similarly, since my clutch has NEVER slipped in all of it's 18000 miles, there's never been anything for me to actually cure.

Have fun at Donny (with or without the loop on the end?)!

I don't wanna insult anyone by stating the (apparently, to me) obvious, but isn't there another thread lurking about somewhere on here at the moment about the clutch having been found to slip if the hydraulic fluid reservoir is overfilled?

Have those who are still 'afflicted' checked this on their bikes and, if appropriate, remedied it to see if it resolves the situation for them?  

By Hansie on Thursday, May 30, 2002 - 01:21 am:

Mmm, oil type could have a big influence in clutch slip.
The people who have clutch slip : did you ever use full synt oil??
And another : does anybody who used full sync oil DIDNT had clutch slip?

Mine has done almost 15.000 miles on 10w40 oil. Had a trackday yesterday at Assen and no clutch slip at all.
Why use the more expensive full synt oil? Trevs bike (and mine) are proving thats a waste of money.

Hansie 

By Benw on Thursday, May 30, 2002 - 01:39 am:

Ok, here's my experience with my clutch...

500 mile service it was treated to putoline semi-synth. No clutch slip.

3000 mile service it was given fully-synth without my asking. Clutch slipped. Semi synth put back in and it still slipped.

7000 mile service. New clutch put in at dealer's expense. Semi synth put in. No clutch slip.

9000 mile service. Changed dealer. Mobil semi synth put in. Clutch slip. stopped slipping at 10,000miles.

12,000 mile service. Mobil semi synth put in. Clutch slip. Stopped slipping at 13,000

15,000 mile service. Mobil semi-synth put in. Clutch slip.

18,000 mile service. Mobil semi-synth. Clutch slip. Clutch steels roughed up. No clutch slip.

As it happened after each service when the clutch fluid was changed, I'm enclined to believe Scrreeecher and co about the clutch fluid level. I'm going to try this and see what happens.

I'm also going to go back to Putoline, but not all at the same time. I'll try the fluid level first...

B  

By Crmc33 on Thursday, May 30, 2002 - 02:39 am:

Im about to change my oil too.

Ive got some 15/50 non synthetic, 'full fat' mineral oil to put in it. If it starts slipping then this goes in favour of the viscosity having an effect rather than the synthetic element.

I wont bother touching the clutch fluid unless the clutch starts to drag or I get a spongy action (sounds painful). I like black clutch fluid is easier to read the level!  

By Dangerous on Thursday, May 30, 2002 - 02:56 am:

Guys,

I read the thread concerning clutch slip, and I read it as relating the ENGINE oil level. Not the clutch fluid resevoir. There would be no logical reason for the hyraulic resevoir level influencing the clutch whatsoever. However, the engine oil level and oil type/grade I could believe influencing the effectiveness of the clutch.

We should have a survey of all Millenauts,(and Falcos) to record and chart oil grade, type, manufacturer, engine milage (clutch milage) vs clutch slip. Rich DMR, is that something that is best set up in your Smartgroups site? Could help clarify the most likely cause(s).

Just a thought, the famous dips seen in the dyno charts at around 5.5k rpm, could this be clutch slip? Need to plot wheel speed vs engine rpm to be sure it's not. Is this possible? Jorge, any comment?

Dangerous  

By Crmc33 on Thursday, May 30, 2002 - 03:52 am:

If it is the engine oil then we have no way of changing it as its independant of the oil tank level isnt it?
IMHO, If there is insufficient air gap in the clutch reservoir then there is a chance that this could affect the actuation of the clutch. But then again Im no high-drollic eggspurt!

I think the database of clutch slip and oil types, etc, may be worthwhile. 

By Mental_Trev on Thursday, May 30, 2002 - 05:32 am:

---

Quote:

I read the thread concerning clutch slip, and I read it as relating the ENGINE oil level. Not the clutch fluid resevoir.

---

By Dangerous on Thursday, May 30, 2002 - 07:14 am:

Doh!

I when I wrote "I read", I guess I should have written "scanned it" together with my idea that it couldn't have been the resevior! (I couldn't even remember where I read the thread, otherwise I would have checked before posting!)

So I am a d*ckhead

I still struggle for a technical explanation of the effect an over filled resevior can have on clutch slip. It's analogous to overfilling the brake resevior causing the front brake to drag. Can this also be true?
Does anyone have experience of this too?

Dangerous 

By Mental_Trev on Thursday, May 30, 2002 - 07:38 am:

By Dangerous on Thursday, May 30, 2002 - 08:50 am:

By Crmc33 on Thursday, May 30, 2002 - 11:01 pm:

Attack me wiv both barrels if necessary,
but my thinking/understanding about the clutch reservoir was that if it is overfilled such that when the system heats up (very likely with the pipework and slave cyl. in close vicinity to the engine) there is nowhere for the fluid to expand to. Hence this would mean that the clutch slave cylinder is under pressure even when the clutch lever is disengaged....and hence reduce the clutch working pressure.
Having spent about 3 minutes thinking about this, its likely to be total botlocks but it would explain the blueing up of the steel plates that some riders have seen when they have taken their clutches apart.
If it is this then if we all check our fluid levels and report on slippage then we should get some interesting results. I suppose the best solution is to drain the level down a bit. Another more long winded option is to junk that stoopid hydraulic system and design a cable operated one instead.
Anyone need a college project?  

By Mark on Thursday, May 30, 2002 - 11:56 pm:

Brake clutch fluid shouldnt really expand. Its boiling temprature is quite high, think of the heat being transferred through the calipers, pistons into the fluid during heavy braking like on a track day for example. So the heat from the engine would be rather small in comparison.

When your clutch lever is out, the sytem is in effect "closed" as the master cylinder piston is covering the hole. Im not saying this isnt the problem because with bikes sometimes what should work and what does work defy convention!!

A cable conversion is a good idea in some respects but does sometimes have disadvatages, like cable routing for a smooth action, needs adjusting, cable needs lubing etc. Good points are if it fails and you have a spare cable handy its a stright swap with minimal tools unlike hydraulic where seals could fail etc and who keeps a spare master cylinder overhaul kit and fluid under their seat?

Keep us updated Singlesman after your track hack, did you experience slip before you put the Barnett in? Trev, have you never experienced clutch slip even with stock clutch? Did you put the Barnett in coz yours was worn or you just wanted to uprate it? Questions questions!

I would like to have a ride on a bike with the clutch slip, then try different remedies one at a time and see what happens. But as our customers dont have clutch slip this isnt gonna happen anytime soon which Im pleased about for them!  

By Crmc33 on Friday, May 31, 2002 - 12:31 am:

But doesnt the hydraulic fluid in the clutch system expand even if it doesnt boil? The slave cyl. does get very hot.
...Not a problem if theres an air gap in the master cylinder but if theres nowhere for it to go then it could pressurise the slave cyl couldnt it?
Ive read that expansion on brake systems can be a problem on mountain bikes cos of their small volume systems and hard use downhill.

Maybe we should ask AP Lockheed or someone similar their opinion??  

By Mental_Trev on Friday, May 31, 2002 - 12:33 am:

Mark

I appear to have confused you - I don't have the Barnett clutch... I'm still on the original stock clutch at 18000 miles and it's NEVER slipped AND I've never noticed my reservoir fluid level to be too much.

HTH

Trev 

By Mark on Friday, May 31, 2002 - 12:24 pm:

Im easily confused Trev!!

Crm, I dont think fluid does expand but I wont stake my life on it! Air is allowed into the reservoir, if you look carefully there is a small slot on the lid but it is only permitted ABOVE the rubber diaphragm which keeps the moisture away and also allows a depression when you pull in the lever.

On a seperate note, I went into London today and went on The London Eye........all I can say is Christ its bloody high!  

By Befbever on Saturday, June 01, 2002 - 01:01 am:

Like to add:
the push rod expands with heat, and that's why the clutch fluid has to have a place to go. Screeech has kindly explained it (he knows I'm a bit thick) and I'm going to try it out myself today. Will keep you posted.

Trev has forgotten to add:
and I haven't a clue what kind of oil I'm using. Could even be mayonnaise!
 

By Wilko on Monday, July 01, 2002 - 02:03 pm:

Start all over again I dont follow..........


Coat=door...


Wilko